One of my favorite visitors to the Galeon was a middle-aged black gentleman who came aboard in New York City. He commented on my nametag, one of the very few who got it right,and told me somewhat admiringly that "Janye" is a black name. (Um, yeah, and I think it's so cool.) We had a nice conversation about the ship, and about our jobs. He was a tourguide on a bus tour of Manhattan. He commented that the ship was beautiful, and I gave my stock reply, "I had nothing to do with the construction, but thank you anyway," and he burst out laughing. Huh? I thought to myself, that phrase is not that funny; I don't get it. "Now I KNOW you're a real tourguide," he told me. "I heard you use that same line, with the same inflection, a few minutes ago!" And then it was my turn to laugh, because he was right, in a takes-one-to-know-one kinda way. I was busted! After you've been giving tours for a while, you learn what works best for the visitors and you say the same thing the same way. Completely memorize your lines. He gave me his card and offered me a complementary tour on his bus, which I never got to take, but I was inspired to write out, word for memorized word, my tour. So if you never got to visit the ship while I was aboard, here, in the first of four blog posts, is what I would have said when you visited. And note, this is MY tour. I do my very best to get facts accurate; but any mistakes here are my own.
The galeon docked in St Augustine |
At the entry on main
deck:
Welcome aboard El Galeon Andalucia. My name is Janye and I’m
a crew member here; I live o
n the ship and travel around with it (I know, tough
life).
A galleon is basically a cargo ship, and Spain used some
variation on the galleon design for about 300 years, in the 16th, 17th,
and 18th century. It was a very successful design for Spain, in those
300 years galleons moved 1.4 trillion
dollars’ worth of goods across the oceans – settlers and their supplies to
Spain’s colonies in the New World; gold, silver, and spices on the return
voyage. (Including a galleon similar to
this one that founded the city of St Augustine 450 years ago.) We are armed
with 12 cannons, not because we’re a fighting ship (we’re not, we’re merchants,
we hate fighting – it cuts into our profits) but because we’re slow. So: full of valuable cargo, too slow to run
away, we better be ready to defend ourselves because this ship is not a pirate ship, it is a pirate target.
This ship is a replica; it was built in 2009 in Huelva,
Spain, and since construction it has traveled over 40,000 miles under its own
power, mostly under sail; the map in the corner shows all the places we’ve
been. We have two, 375-hp diesel
engines; we use those mostly for docking and close maneuvering. There was no
such thing as marinas 400 years ago so they neither had nor needed that kind of
exactness, they’d just drop anchor anywhere in the harbor and row ashore in
small boats. Instead, we visit marinas so people like you can come aboard. We
also use the engines for meeting a schedule, because of course in the old days
if the wind ain’t blowin’, the ship ain’t goin’. You’d simply wait. But we have a schedule of
port appearances to keep. So if there’s no wind, or wind from the wrong
direction, we turn on the motor. But we prefer to sail. Sailing is more fun, it’s more comfortable,
and hey! We’re owned by a non-profit! Wind is free, diesel is expensive! And we
use a lot of diesel, we don’t measure
our diesel in gallons; we measure it in tons.
As galleons go, we’re at the large end of the historic size
range. We’re 170 feet long, 496 tons, and our main mast is 120 feet from its
top to its base two decks below our feet.
We all have to climb it to do our work today. And, being 21st century people even though we live on a 17th
century ship, we all have our selfies from the top.
In the old days, a ship like this would have needed a crew
of 130. (If there are any kids in the audience, add: “starting as young as 9
years old. One of the first jobs for the
9 year olds is to climb the rigging up to the crow’s nest and be a
lookout. Look for enemy ships, look for
land, look for whatever the captain tells you to look for. Do you think that would be a good job?” If
they say yes, “That’s why they used 9 year olds! They have this rockin’ awesome
attitude that everything’s an adventure!” If they say no, “Nine year olds are
so much smarter today than they were back then.” Continue, “They used 9 year
olds because they are light, they are agile, they are fearless, they have great
eyesight. And they’re also … disposable. If one falls, at least you
haven’t wasted years training them. Just
go to the next port and pick up another one.”) This modern replica ship crossed
the Atlantic with a crew of 34, plus Mr. Computer, Mr. GPS, and Mr. Radar. So
thank you, modern technology.
Overview of the main deck, looking forward from the quarterdeck |
(FAQ: Why did it take so many more people back then? “They
would have had to maintain the ship; they would have had sailmakers and
carpenters and caulkers, in addition to sailors. All things that are not
necessary now with modern materials.” )
(FAQ: How long did the trip take? “Then, two to three
months. Now, the modern ship crossed the Atlantic from Canary Islands to Puerto
Rico in 24 days, and 17 of those days were sail only.”)
(FAQ: Why the difference? “Three reasons. (1) Modern weather routing lets us take advantage
of winds. (2) Modern hull materials – the old wooden hulls would grow barnacles
and algae that would add friction and slow them down. We have modern fiberglass
hull and antifouling paints to make that far less of an issue. (3) When they
had no wind, they waited. We could use the engine.)
(FAQ: Who owns the ship and why was it built and how long
did it take and how much did it cost? “Built and owned by the Nao Victoria
Foundation, a non-profit in Spain, for purposes of education and outreach and
to help preserve Spain’s maritime heritage. 150 people worked for 16 months to
build it at a cost between 5 and 6 million Euros (about $9 million))
Overview of the main deck, from foredeck looking aft |
The main cargo hatch |
We’re here on the main deck and behind me is the main cargo
hatch. They could remove this grill and load cargo directly into the cargo
hold. If they are small items they’d form a human chain and hand things down via
a bucket brigade; if they are larger heavier items they’d use ropes and pulleys
and the capstan you will see when you go below to the gun deck. And, at the end of the day, when you reward
yourself with that cold beer and go, “Glug, glug, down the hatch?” This is the “hatch”
where that expression comes from.
At the back of the main deck is the Zona Noble, the Noble
Area. These ships only go downwind, which means the freshest air and best
breezes come from the back. So the wealthy and powerful glommed onto this
area. The officers and VIPs and wealthy
had their cabins here, and here is where the captain would entertain visiting
dignitaries or the ship’s owners, for example.
Map of the galeon's travels |
This map shows everywhere this replica ship has been. Built in
Huelva in southwestern Spain near the Portugal border. This is the same place
some of the original galleons were built 400 years ago. The maiden voyage was
to Shanghai, China in 2010, and back to Spain in 2011. The worst weather the
ship has ever been in was in the Philippines, they caught the tail end of a
typhoon. I’m told that the waves were as high as the quarterdeck. Then in 2012
they visited various ports around Spain, and in 2013 crossed the Atlantic and
have been traveling up and down cities on the East Coast, and Puerto Rico.
Winter before last they were in Puerto Rico filming an NBC mini-series about
Blackbeard called “Crossbones,” and a couple of Captain Morgan rum commercials.
The Atlantic crossing was similar to the route the original
galleons took. The ships could only go downwind. So they would leave Spain and
sail down the coast of Africa until they got to the latitude in the 20s, where
the trade winds blow steadily from the east. They’d ride those winds straight
across to the colonies in Florida or the Caribbean, do whatever they’re doing.
Then they’d get on the Gulf Stream and let it carry them north and back west.
Here at the latitude in the low 40s, New York City or Madrid, the winds blow
predominantly from the west and would carry them home. One giant clockwise
circle around the Atlantic once a year. This is also why Spain clung so tightly
to the cities of Havana and Miami: the Gulf Stream runs very close to shore
here and they wanted to protect that shipping route. It is one of the reasons
Spain was so powerful during this period, because they knew about and
controlled the Gulf Stream to get them across the ocean faster than their
rivals.
Oh no - I've always called you Jaye but its really Jayne! So sorry! In any event, Jaye/Jayne is a great tour guide!
ReplyDeleteWow I've really done it now. It's not even Jayne, it's Janye. Can I just call you Bob instead?
DeleteNow let me make the name thing even more complicated. I go by "Jaye" everywhere. Janye is the greatest typo in the history of English, and I love my (accidental) name. On the ship about half the people used Jaye and half used Jane. "Jane" was very practical. There was another crew member named Roger, and with their accent, Roger became "ro-ZHAY" which sounded way to close to the way they pronoucned Jaye "ZHAY." Being "Jane" made it easy to tell which one of us an order was being addressed to. 99.9% of the visitors saw Janye on my name tag and proceeded to call me either Jayne or Janey.
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